Busan

After our long drive down to the coast on Monday, we decided to take Tuesday easy. We got a very late start--in part because we all wanted to sleep in and in part because David had some homework to finish before we could set out for the day. After finishing his test and quizzes, we climbed back into our car and headed east toward Busan. We decided to head toward Busan Tower first.

The drive into Busan took about an hour from Chinhae and then it took us a little more time once inside Busan to find the parking structure for Busan Tower (we basically had to circle the entire mountain the tower sits on to get to the designated parking).





I'm glad we chose Busan Tower as our first (and quite frankly, only) stop in Busan. It was a beautiful clear day and we got a great view of the city, including the harbor and all the many ships that come through Busan.

Busan is a much smaller city than Seoul which was quite nice. I like my cities to be on the smaller side. They feel more manageable, less overwhelming, and more endearing. I do wish we'd had a bit more time to explore Busan. What I did see and experience, I quite liked.

Zara spent most of the day conked out in her baby carrier. If we keep moving and walking, she stays asleep. As soon as we stop, she wakes up and wants to eat. I'm not sure how Koreans view nursing in public but based on the number of long stares I received as I nursed Zara (covered up, mind you), I'm guessing it's not typically done. Oh well. I figure I can get away with it since I'm American.

After going to the top of Busan Tower and exploring the area near there, we walked down the mountain and into the city. We walked around a cute little shopping district. It had just one lane of traffic and was very pedestrian friendly.

The whole street was dotted with these fountains and statues.

My favorite was the cat.

I'm predictable like that.

One more shot of Zara because she's so darn cute.

We walked around the shopping area for a little bit--my mom bought a pair of shoes--and then decided to find a place to eat before heading back to Chinhae. We eventually settled on one Korean "beef and leaf" place. It looked much nicer than the restaurants around it, which is why we chose it. It was still early so we were the first people in the restaurant and the owner--a man who had lived in Chicago for a few years and who spoke very good English--spent a lot of time explaining the different cuts of meat to us and was generally very attentive. He gave us whatever extra food we wanted, explained why and how to eat certain things, and what some of the more mysterious side dishes were. It was a very delicious meal and a great restaurant. By the time we left, the place was filling up quickly. I wish I had taken a picture of the restuarant or at least written down the name so I could remember where it was and what it was called.

We walked back to the car and got all settled in again for the drive back to Chinhae. It had been relatively easy to find out way into Busan and to the tower so we thought it'd be relatively easy to find our way out of Busan and back on the road to Chinhae but like most things in Korea, it proved to not be quite as easy as we had anticipated. After driving for an hour we still had not made our way out of Busan and we were growing quite frustrated. (Korean street signs are not very helpful. Neither were our maps.) We eventually pulled over to a gas station where David held a very long conversation with some of the employees there about the best way to get back to Chinhae. One man was very emphatic that we take a certain road home and tried his best to explain it to David and even drew a rough map for us to follow. David thought he could find his way home from there and so we were just about to head off again when the man stopped our car and told us that if we'd just wait 5 minutes, he'd lead us to the right road. So we followed the man's car out of the city and to the 2, which would take us to Chinhae. It's a good thing he was so kind to take us because we would have totally missed the correct turn-off. (In typical Korean fashion, the road he told us to take was the 35, but the sign actually called it the 66 because it has two names.) We followed the man for almost an hour before he pulled over and told us that the way to Chinhae should be clear.

David thanked him profusely for his kindness and offered him money for his time and the cost of his gas which he waved away, saying that he lived nearby anyway. (David assured us that that was a lie. Why would a man drive 50 kilometers just to work at a gas station?) We eventually found our way back to the navy base after three hours on the road.

I don't know if the people of Busan are just generally nicer than the people of Seoul (no one in Seoul would have every offered to show us the way home) or if we just happened to meet two of the friendlier Korean people, but our impression of Busan was greatly affected by the kindness of strangers. David has often felt a lack of connection and love for the people of Korea and their country (unlike Taiwan, where he served his mission) but our experience in Busan has changed his opinion of Korea. Korea truly is a beautiful country--it's just hard to see it sometimes when you're trapped in the smog and indifference of Seoul.

Jikjisa and the trip to Chinhae

While my parents were here, we went on a whirlwind tour of the Korean peninsula. I was very excited to get out of Seoul and to see more of Korea. We really haven't explored Korea much and I kept hearing that the southern portion of the country is beautiful and worth visiting. Mostly, I just wanted to get out of the city. Of course, actually getting out of the metropolitan Seoul area is much more difficult than it sounds because it's so full of traffic. But once we FINALLY made it out of Seoul, the roads cleared up and we started to make some good progress. We had rooms booked at the Navy base down in Chinhae, which sits on the southern coast about an hour to the west of Busan.

Halfway through our journey to Chinhae, we stopped at one of Korea's many, many rest stops. The rest stops in Korea are rather impressive. Sure, they feature bathrooms, food, and gas stations just like the ones in America, but they have higher quality food and there are more amenities. One even had a "lactation room" and a real changing table and baby bathtub in the bathroom. The one we stopped at on Monday was situated along a resevoir or river of some kind and had beautifully large windows that showcased the water and mountains. It was rather picturesque. (Of course I wasn't expecting the rest stop to be so scenic so I left my camera in the car.) We ate a late lunch, I fed Zara, and did a little souvenir shopping. Mostly, it was just nice to stretch our legs.

Not long after starting on our journey again, we stopped in Kimcheon to visit the Jikjisa Buddhist temple. Our good friend (who served his mission in Korea and has traveled throughout the country) said that it was one of his favorite spots in all of Korea. We weren't sure if we should stop since we had gotten such a late start that day and were nervous about finding our way down to Chinhae in the dark, but I'm so glad that we made the detour to visit the site. It was absolutely beautiful and so worth the extra time and trouble it took to get there.

It's in a more remote location up in the mountains and is surrounded by trees, mountains and fresh water streams.
The first thing I noticed when we stepped out of the car was the cool, crisp, fresh air. I suddenly realized just how dirty and unrefreshing Seoul city air is and it felt like I was breathing for the first time in a really, really long time. I couldn't stop taking deep breaths and filling my lungs with all that pure, sweet mountain air.

It was late afternoon so the sun was already down and the air was very cool. That, along with the beautiful colors of the changing season really made me feel like it was truly autumn. I love, love, love fall. I hate that the switch from summer to fall seems so short.

The temple buldings themselves were typical Asian/Buddhist buildings (and really once you've seen one, you've seen them all) but it was the location and scenery that made Jikjisa so breathtaking and memorable.

They must have been burning a wood fire somewhere on the premesis because I caught a whiff of that delicious campfire smell and I had this gut-wrenching longing to roast some marshmellows and commune with nature.

I really didn't want to leave. You can actually stay at the temple and hang with the monks. It actually sounds kinda nice.

As we continued to walk around, I got more and more reluctant to leave. I kept telling David how much I wanted to go camping or visit some of Korea's national parks and just be in nature. After 15 months of being in one big city or another, I had forgotten just how much I love peace and quiet and nature.

I made David promise that we'd at least visit Sorakson before we leave Korea. And that we'd try to get out of Seoul more often.

So breathtaking.

After walking around the grounds we about an hour, we reluctantly piled back into the car to continue on our journey. We had hoped that it would only take another two hours to get to Chinhae but we ended up getting quite lost and it took us about an hour or two to find knowledgeable Koreans who could give us adequate directions toward Chinhae and the base. Our maps of Korea were absolutely useless. We finally found the base (which is tiny) and got settled in our rooms (which were very nice and inexpensive) and crashed for the night. I took the longest shower and it was glorious. Despite the extra time it took, I'm so glad we stopped at Jikjisa. I think it's my favorite place in Korea right now too.

Zara was an absolutely fantastic little traveler. She mostly slept in her carseat while we were driving and didn't mind being transferred to the carrier when we'd get out to see things. She fussed and cried a little, but really, she did a terrific job. She's such a wonderful baby...I don't know how I got so lucky.

But having just typed that, I know I'll live to regret those words. Oh well.

Halloween Nerds

Last night was our ward's Halloween party so we needed some costumes. Two years ago, David and I went as Lily and James Potter so we figured we could re-use the robes we had made.

Plus now we had one more accessory.....


Harry [Harriet] Potter!

And being the major nerds that we are, David and I debated about whether or not we should draw the ligtning bolt scar on Zara's forehead since that would mean that we'd be dead. But I thought people would understand our costumes better if we just went ahead and drew on the scar. Of course, Zara didn't really want to hold still so her scar got a bit smeared. Still, I thought people got a kick out of it. I know I did.

Zara's Blessing

My parents spent a week in Korea with us so it's been a very busy week. I've got a lot to update from our travels and adventures so let's start at the beginning.

On Sunday, we had Zara's baby blessing. It's somewhat similar to a christening in the Catholic church. Children are not officially considered a member of the Mormon church until they are baptized (generally when they turn eight), but they are given a name and a blessing that puts them on the records of the church as an infant. David gave Zara a beautiful blessing. He blessed her with peace, joy, and happiness in her life and that she will be a delight and a joy to those around her. He also blessed her with a keen mind and intellect, integrity, and honesty and that she would be a woman of virtue and a good example to others.

Before the blessing, Zara was a bit fussy. Really, we were all a bit of a mess. Zara leaked out of her diaper and all over her onesie and David. While David was cleaning himself off, I fed Zara but as I was getting everything in position, I leaked milk all down my shirt and onto one of my favorite skirts. (And lucky for me, the skirt is "spot clean only." I think my attempts at looking nice and well-dressed are officially over.) After feeding her, I changed her very poopy diaper, and put her in a new onesie and her blessing outfit which my mother had brought. (My mom bought blessing clothes for a boy and a girl while in Paris several years ago. All the grandchildren are blessed in these clothes.) Zara fussed and cried during the opening of Sacrament meeting but she was quiet and calm throughout her blessing and then fell asleep for the remainder of the meeting.
What a beautiful little angel she is....when she's sleeping.

Of course, she woke up during Sunday School and exploded out of another diaper AND had to be changed out of her second onesie of the day. At least, this time I was prepared and my mom was there to help. She really is a good baby most of the time but she does make life a lot more interesting. Still, we wouldn't trade her for the world and she's already brought us so much joy. I can't wait to watch her learn and grow and to see what kind of woman she will become.

Zara at One Month

My baby is a month old. Seriously, when did that happen? Time has just been flying by and the days all seem to blur into one another. But my baby keeps growing (seriously, the girl is gigantic) and I'm starting to feel like I'm figuring out how to be a mom. Now, I'll feel truly successful when I can stop being mom 24 hours a day and get a few moments of Liz time in there. Babies are time consuming projects. I can only say that I'm so grateful that I don't have to worry about having to go back to a full-time job and leave my daughter's care in someone else's hands. It really is a blessing to be able to stay at home with her. But it also a really awesome blessing to have a wonderful husband who loves his baby and will take her from me so that I can have some time to myself too.

Look at how huge she's gotten! We don't go back to the doctor until her two month checkup, but according to my own measurements, Zara is now a little over ten pounds and 22 inches long, both of which put her in the 50 to 75th percentile.

I finally got David to take a few photos of Zara and me together. I've tried snapping a few of us myself, but it's generally after feeding her when I'm less than adequately clothed and it's best I don't publicize those for all the world to see. I look at these photos of Zara and me and wonder, "How is this my daughter? How did she end up with such dark hair?" Sometimes, I swear she doesn't belong to me because I see so little of myself in her. I know as she grows, I'll see more resemblances to myself but at least I can rest assured that she really is my daughter because she does look like David.
We took these photos before church on Sunday. Our first Sunday back at church, Zara pretty much slept through all three hours. So I was totally unprepared for our second Sunday when Zara wanted to eat non-stop through all three meetings and then exploded out the back-end of her diaper. And of course, I hadn't brought a spare onesie so Zara had to go without for the remainder of Relief Society. At least it happened near the end of church.

She's so cute in her car seat. And she does a great job in the car. She'll fuss for a little while but she generally just falls asleep after a few minutes.

Now on to her one-month status report:

General Observations, Physical Changes, Etc.

Zara has gotten very good at holding up her head on her own. Although sometimes she bangs her head against our chests really hard. I can't imagine that's good for her.

She smiles frequently, though I think it's still involuntary at this point.

She loves to sleep on either David or me belly-to-belly but she doesn't seem to really like individual tummy-time on her own. She tolerates it for about five minutes before she starts wailing.

Zara has really excellent lungs. She likes to remind us quite frequently.

Zara still has all her gloriously beautiful dark hair. I don't think it's going to fall out, like so many people told me it would, but I'm still afraid it's going to get lighter over time.

One thing Zara did get from me is her tendency to play with her hair. She loves to move her hands and fingers and she often grabs onto her hair or her ear when sleeping or eating.

Zara wears a combination of cloth and disposable diapers. We use the cloth when we're home and the disposables when we're out and about (or when the cloth diapers are being washed). She's already outgrown her newborn diapers and has moved up to a size one/small. I like the disposables in that they make it much easier to tell when Zara needs a diaper change and she can fit into her clothes better (the cloth diapers are rather bulky) but I'm definitely glad we decided to go the cloth diaper route because there is less incidence of diaper rash because fewer harsh chemicals are touching her skin and I don't feel like we're just throwing money away with every diaper change. She probably gets around 10-12 diaper changes a day and averages about four poopy diapers a day. She gets hilariously red in the face when filling her diaper and then looks quite pleased with herself afterwards. [And yes, that is probably more than you ever wanted to know about Zara's diaper output but it's amazing how important it has become to me since it's the best way to tell if Zara is getting enough food each day or is sick. Luckily, her diapers tell me that so far, she's doing fantastically.]

Zara loves to be held. This was fine during the first two weeks of her life but is becoming a bit more problematic now. She doesn't really care for any carrier we've tried putting her in, but she is starting to tolerate the Moby wrap more. (Although I still feel like I'm using that thing all wrong and it kills my back after a few minutes.)

Zara adores her Daddy and her Daddy adores her. At least I've got the food, otherwise I'd be totally replaceable.

Zara finally lost her umbilical cord about 16 days after birth. It still looks a little red and tender in that area and it's surprisingly deep. Belly buttons kinda freak me out. I don't know why.

Zara's eyes have started to get a little lighter than they were at birth and are now a grayish-blue. I hope they continue to get lighter like her Daddy's eyes. (She'll also be one lucky girl if she gets his eyelashes too.)

Zara's skin peeled during the first two weeks. I couldn't resist picking at it. (Just like I can't resist peeling my skin when I get a bad sunburn.) But now Zara has soft and smooth baby skin.

Unfortunately, Zara has some baby acne on her cheeks. It's starting to look better and I hope it'll eventually go away soon.

Zara likes to be sung to. We mostly sing church songs but my favorite is when David sings "Hello my baby" to her.

Eating and sleeping habits

Zara LOVES to eat. She'd probably be attached to my breast all day long if I'd let her. So far, she hasn't really liked the bottle (although we've only tried to give her a bottle twice so far) and she doesn't really care for her pacifer either.

Zara is generally a very good sleeper at night. She'll have one bad night about once a week where she just won't fall asleep after eating and fusses and cries for several hours before finally falling back asleep but she generally sleeps for 3-4 hour intervals and then falls back asleep after a diaper change and a feeding. She has slept for six hours straight twice in the last week.

Zara was an excellent napper during her first two weeks but the last two weeks she has not been sleeping during the day, much to my consternation. She tends to fall asleep after a meal and will sleep for about 15-20 minutes before she wakes up again. And she generally always wakes back up if I try to put her down in her bassinet to sleep.

I've been feeding Zara on demand and letting her sleep when she wants to this past month. But since I need a more consistent schedule (and time to get things done during the day), I'm going to try to get her started on a sleep routine in the next few weeks. Wish me luck.

Zara doesn't like chocolate milk. This makes me very sad. I just hope she'll continue to tolerate other dairy products. I like cheese and ice cream too much.

Accomplishments and Firsts

Since Zara was born in Korea, we had to get her a consular report of birth abroad (instead of a birth certificate) and a visa to stay in the country which meant getting her a passport. So at nine days old, Zara got her first passport photos taken. She didn't want to keep her eyes open but we eventually got one good shot. I found it really amusing to fill out her height, weight, and eye colors stats since they change so fast. We got her passport back this week and it's adorable.

Baby's favorite toys, places to go, etc.

Zara doesn't really have the ability to play with any toys yet, but she does like the sound her rattle makes. She can't hold onto it herself (it's still a bit too heavy) but she does like to watch it when I shake it.

Aside from a few visits to the doctor and trip to church, Zara hasn't really gone many places besides the grocery store, PX, and one trip to the IPark mall. We'll hopefully be getting out much more in her second month, especially when my parents come to Korea for a visit. I don't want them to just sit around at home the whole time they are here.

My favorite Zara moment from the last month comes at David's expense. (I find it hilarious....David probably doesn't.) Anyway, David was changing Zara's diaper one night last week. He had just taken off her diaper and was wiping her cute little baby bum off when she projectile-pooped all over David. Seriously. It was everywhere. On the floor, all over the changing table, and running down David's pants. All I could do was laugh and laugh and then help David clean himself and Zara off. David has understandably become quite wary when changing Zara's diapers now. He positions Zara's bottom away from himself and keeps a cloth diaper handy should he need to cover himself. I'm just glad it didn't happen to me.

Okay, one slightly inappropriate shot before I wrap this entry up. (At least I'm mostly covered up.) This is my absolute favorite part of being a mom, after Zara eats and sighs her little sighs of milky contentment and falls asleep on my chest. I know it won't last long so I try to savor the moments I do have. I love my little family.