Happy 2554th Birthday!

Friday was Buddha's 2554th birthday which, along with Christmas, is one of the two major religious holidays in Korea. (Twenty-nine percent of Koreans are Christian; 22% are Buddhist. The rest have no religious preference.) Buddha's birthday celebration includes several lotus lantern festivals, lantern-making workshops, street performances, and a huge parade. Unfortunately, I caught on a little late and we missed the big parade and the lighting of the lanterns (which is done the Sunday before his birthday) but I hope we'll catch it next year because it looks amazing from the pictures I've seen.

Luckily, I did a little research and discovered that Bongeunsa, one of the biggest Buddhist temples in Seoul, was still hosting its exhibition of hand-made paper lanterns. So Saturday afternoon, David and I ventured across the Han River to visit the temple. (It's right across from the COEX mall, the biggest mall in Asia.)

After pulling into the parking lot, David and I were greeted by this statue of Buddha in the center of a pond filled with lotus flowers. I was quite surprised how big and spacious the temple complex was and how much greenery surrounded the individual buildings. It's always rare to find open space and nature in such a big city like Seoul.

Of course, there were the millions and millions of lotus lanterns hanging up. The white tags include people's prayers or blessings. Sadly, workmen were already taking down many of the lanterns. I wonder how many were originally hanging.

Since we drove and parked at the temple, we didn't enter through the main gates of the temple complex, but if we had, we would have been greeted by this beautiful walkway.

This small building was situated on a hill, overlooking the main entrance of the complex. One thing that constantly fascinates me about Asia is the juxtaposition of the traditional relics of the past with the modernity of a 21st century metropolis. Though we were surrounded by beautiful examples of traditional Korean architecture and the peace and tranquility that nature brings, all around us were skyscrapers and the noises of cars and buses clogging up the traffic-jammed city streets of Seoul. It's not unlike sitting deep within Central Park and having the bustle of New York City momentarily fade away. Somehow, it's very comforting to find places that make me forget that I live in city with 20 million other people. I take them where I can find them.


Inside this building, there were many people bowing over and over again to Buddha. It just looked exhausting to me, but then again, I'm creeping into that stage of pregnancy where sitting down and standing up are becoming more and more laborious.

I love old doors. I can't say why.

At the back of the temple complex is this massive statue of Buddha (and more lanterns!). David and I sat down here to rest and enjoy a little picnic lunch. I sure hope Buddha doesn't mind that we ate peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and Cheetos at his feet.

Can I just take a moment to express my joy over the arrival of Spring? I'm so glad it's here. Finally. It was a long, cold winter.

And Summer? Please don't hurry. It feels just fiiine right now. I don't need your heat or humidity or monsoon rains just yet.

Our last stop after walking around the whole complex was this building where they typically hold academic lectures and cultural courses but which was currently housing the absolutely breathtaking hand-made lanterns designed by the monks.

This lotus flower lantern was by far my favorite. Some were incredibly abstract and others were just a little silly (like the recreation of Dokdo). But all were simply amazing to see in person.

A Korean warrior and a drum.

A woman.

A sunrise.

And wings, which greeted us when we first walked into the room.

It started to sprinkle just as we were leaving the temple, so we headed back home instead of venturing to Jogyesa (the other big Buddhist temple in Seoul) but I'm glad we got out and saw Bongeunsa while the lanterns were still there.

David and I keep saying we need to be more proactive about going out and seeing the sites of Korea. I hope now that spring is here, we'll make more of an effort, but next weekend we'll be taking a quick 4-day tour of Beijing that was organized by David's command. We thought it'd be nice to get in one more trip before the third trimester sets in and traveling is a no-no. Luckily the flight to Beijing is only two hours and the whole trip (meals, hotel, tours, and activities) have been arranged for us. I can't wait to see the Great Wall and the Forbidden City! Expect a ridiculous number of photos when I return.

Food Candy: Pizza Magherita

You can't live in Italy for four months without coming away with an almost sacred reverence for the true Italian pizza with it's delicately thin crust and fresh mozarella. I'd never found a pizza (either homemade or restaurant-produced) that came close to the wonder of a real pizza magherita, until my sister (my recipe provider) sent me Cook's Illustrated's "Italian Favorites" collection. This pizza has quickly become one of David and my favorite meals. So quick, simple, and delicious. Almost, almost as good as the real thing. So it must be shared.

Pizza Dough

1 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
1 cup water, room temperature
1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup cake flour
1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
2 teaspoons sugar

In a liquid measuring cup, whisk yeast into water to dissolve. In food processor fitted with metal blade, process flours, salt, and sugar until combined, about 5 seconds. With machine running, slowly add liquid through feed tube; continue to process until dough forms satiny, sticky ball that clears sides of workbowl, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. (Add more dough or water as needed.) Divide dough in half and shape into two smooth, tight balls. Place on floured counter or baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled in volume, about 1 hour.

Here's my dough after rising for about 4 hours. I think the mixture of regular flour and cake flour really allows the dough to retain it's delicate silkiness without becoming too heavy.

Pizza Topping

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes (I prefer Muir Glen organic tomatoes)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 small garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves
Table salt
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into 1-inch chunks
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

In clean bowl of food processor, process tomatoes until crushed, 2 or 3 one-second pulses. Transfer tomatoes to a fine-mesh strainer set over bowl and let drain at least 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to release liquids. Just before shaping pizza rounds, combine drained tomatoes, sugar, garlic, some of the basil, and 1/4 teaspoons salt into bowl.

Here are my tomatoes draining into a bowl. Straining the tomatoes helps prevent the topping from becoming too liquidy and making the crust too soggy, especially in the center. Could this topping be any easier? It's awesome.

Okay, so now we're ready to shape the dough and get to cooking. Set your pizza stone in the oven and preheat the oven to 500 degrees. (It takes my oven about 15 minutes to get hot enough.) Dust dough liberally with flour and transfer balls to well-floured work surface. Press one ball into 8-inch disk. Using flattened palms, gently stretch disk into a 12-inch circle, working along outer edge. (I often use a rolling pin as well.) When the oven is hot enough, remove the pizza stone and place the dough onto the stone. (This is made significantly easier if you have a pizza peel, but you can make do without it too.) Spread a thin layer of half of the topping onto the dough, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Put in the oven and bake for about 5 minutes. Remove the pizza from the oven and top pizza with half of the cheese chunks, spaced evenly apart. Return pizza to the oven and continue cooking for another 4-5 minutes, until the cheese is melted and started to bubble.

Here's all my ingredients getting ready for the pizza making.

When the pizza is done, transfer to a cutting board, sprinkle with fresh basil and 1 teaspoon of olive oil and a pinch of salt. Slice and serve immediately. Repeat with the second pizza.

Doesn't it look fantastic? And it's so quick and easy too, especially if you make the dough in the morning and it's already risen and ready to go when you get home from work.

Here's David all excited for his first bite of pizza. (Excuse his cheesy face....he likes to be silly.) Despite its thin crust, the pizza is quite filling. David and I generally only eat one pizza between the two of us (unless we're feeling especially hungry) and save the second one to make for lunch (or dinner) the next day. Two pizzas is more than adequate to feed 2 adults and some children.

Enjoy!

Food Candy: Chicken Tikka Masala and Naan Bread

I already posted the recipe for chicken tikka masala before but it bears repeating because we love it that much. I just wish it weren't so time consuming, otherwise I'd make it every week.

Doesn't it look absolutely delicious? Yes, yes it does. And it is. It's the best kind of food candy there is. Flavorful, comforting and buttery. It just melts in your mouth.

The best part is the chicken because even though it gets the nice, crispy outer skin, it's still moist and delicious inside. You won't be sorry if you spend the time to make the recipe.

Now, on to the second best part: my sister sent me a naan bread recipe (also from Cook's Illustrated) that beats all the other naan bread recipes I've tried before.

2 ½ cups bread flour, plus extra as needed
¼ cup whole wheat flour, shifted
1 package instant yeast (2 ¼ teaspoons)
2 teaspoons sugar
Salt
1 cup water, at room temperature
¼ cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for the bowl
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1. Combine the flours, yeast, sugar, and 1 ½ teaspoons salt in the bowl of a standing mixer and mix with paddle attachment until blended, about 15 seconds. Add the water, yogurt, and olive oil and mix on low speed until a shaggy dough forms, about 30 seconds.
2. Replace the paddle with the dough hook and knead the dough on medium speed until smooth and glossy, about 8 minutes, adding additional flour in 1-tablespoon increments, allowing 20 seconds between each addition as needed for the dough to clear the sides of the bowl, but stick to the very bottom. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and lightly knead by hand for 1 minute.


3. Shape the dough into a large ball, transfer to a large, lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and place in a draft-free spot until the dough has doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour. (At this point, the dough can be punched down, wrapped tightly in a plastic wrap, and refrigerated for up to 2 days).
4. Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface, cut into 8 equal portions, and roll each portion into a round ball. Set the balls aside on the counter or baking sheet, and let rest for 10 minutes.
5. Working with 1 ball of dough at a time, lay on lightly floured work surface and roll into a 6-inch circle using a rolling pin (sprinkle with flour if dough is sticky). Set the rounds aside on the floured counter or baking sheet.
6. Heat a heavy 12-inch skillet over medium high heat until hot, 5 minutes (if using lighter pan, heat for only 2-3 minutes). Working with one piece of dough at a time, lift the dough and gently stretch about 1 inch larger, and lay it on the skillet. Cook until small bubbles appear the surface of the dough, about 30 seconds. Flip the bread and continue to cook until the bottom is speckled and deep golden brown in spots, about 2 minutes. Flip the bread again and cook until bottom is speckled and deep golden brown in spots, 1-2 minutes longer.


7. Transfer the bread to a wire rack, brush lightly with butter, season with salt and let cool for about 5 minutes. (I usually don’t use the butter and salt unless I am serving it immediately and depending on how I am using it.) Repeat with the remaining dough rounds. Wrap the bread loosely in a clean kitchen towel and serve immediately. (The bread can be kept in an airtight container and stored at room temperature for 2-3 days. Reheat in microwave or in 300 degree oven until warm).

In exchange for teaching my friend how to make chicken tikka masala, she gave me a jar of ghee, which is absolutely delicious on naan bread.

It also makes for great left-overs. Just saying.

Food Candy: Gnocchi with Tomatoes, Bacon and Spinach

Remember how I'm pregnant? Remember how I also live in Korea? It's sometimes not the greatest combination, especially when I'm craving the things that can only be obtained in America. I do crave normal things which can typically be purchased at the Commissary (like ice cream, Doritos and corn dogs.....yes, corn dogs) but what I fantasize about are In & Out cheeseburgers, Chipotle's chicken burritos, Olive Garden's chicken con broccoli, and El Ranchito's rolled tacos.

But since I cannot have these things, I have to turn instead to what I call food candy. Food candy are those few meals that I make on a regular basis that I ALWAYS enjoy eating. It doesn't matter what time of the day it is or how hungry I am, these meals always satisfy and always sound delicious. So, in an effort to minimize my fantasies about In & Out and Chipotle, I'd like to do a series of posts about my food candy recipes.

One of my favorite fast, quick, and easy recipes is Eating Well's Gnocchi with Tomatoes, Pancetta, and Wilted Watercress. Except that I can't find pancetta, so I use bacon instead. And there's no watercress to be had either so I use spinach. And the Commissary here, to my ever-lasting consternation, does not carry gnocchi, so I make my own. Gnocchi are Italian potato dumplings and they are divine (when done right). You can generally find them fresh, frozen, or packaged in the regular pasta aisle. But if you want to try making your own (which is a bit time consuming), Eating Well has another great guide to making homemade gnocchi.

Here's my gnocchi getting ready to be boiled. Whenever I make gnocchi, I make several batches which I then boil and freeze so I always have gnocchi on hand whenever a new craving kicks in. Now onto the recipe (which I've changed a bit to suit my tastes and available ingredients):

Gnocchi with Tomatoes, Bacon, and Spinach

2-4 ounces pancetta, chopped (I use 3-4 slices of bacon)
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 large tomatoes, chopped (I find regular tomatoes break down too much and make the pasta a little soupy, so I use cherry tomatoes instead which keep their shape and juices in tact.)
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 teaspoons red-wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 pound gnocchi,
4 ounces spinach
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. Put a large pan of water on to boil.
2. Cook pancetta/bacon in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it begins to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, sugar and crushed red pepper and cook, stirring, until the tomatoes are almost completely broken down, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar and salt. Remove from the heat.
3. Cook gnocchi in the boiling water until they float, 3 to 5 minutes or according to package directions. Place spinach in a colander and drain the gnocchi over the spinach, wilting it slightly. Add the gnocchi and spinach to the sauce in the pan; toss to combine. Serve immediately, with Parmesan.

So I gather up my ingredients.

And chop up the tomatoes, bacon, and garlic. By the way, that garlic zoom thingy (in the right hand front corner) is amazing. So fabulous at mincing garlic.

Then I brown the bacon, add garlic and tomatoes until they break down. I boil the gnocchi and then strain it through a colander filled with the spinach and then add it back to the pan with the bacon and tomatoes and top with Parmesan cheese.

And voila! A tasty, delicious, and health(ier) meal. And it takes less than 30 minutes to throw it all together. Plus, it makes the perfect amount to feed both David and me. If it weren't 7am right now, I'd be getting mighty hungry.

Grandpa Hayman, 1921-2010

My Grandpa Hayman passed away last Wednesday. It was expected and yet unexpected. About a month after celebrating his 89th birthday in February, doctors diagnosed my grandfather with pancreatic cancer and gave him a few short months to live. I just didn't expect that it would be weeks instead of months. For some reason, I had really hoped that he would live to see his six forthcoming great-grandchildren born in the next six months; in other ways, it's comforting to know that even though Grandpa Hayman is no longer with us, so many new children will soon be with us and that Grandpa's memory will live on.

I have a close relationship with my Grandma and Grandpa Hayman because, for the majority of my childhood, they lived close by. They were there at my concerts and recitals, graduations, baptism, birthdays, and wedding. Spending time at Grandma and Grandpa's house is always a treat....and not just because they always have a very well-stocked cupboard full of cookies and candies. It's very hard to be so far away from home and to not get to attend his funeral, which was held yesterday. But I want my chance to remember him just the same because there's a little part of him in everything about me.

Grandma Hayman, David, me, and Grandpa Hayman at my wedding

-- Bow ties. My grandfather wore only bow ties. Who doesn't love a cute little 80 year old man in a bow tie? He always had a clear sense of style and no one could deter him from that.

-- His sense of humor. Grandpa told some of the corniest jokes on earth, but they always made me laugh because he told them so well. The last few years his memory started to fade and so I heard several of them many times over, but they never ceased to make me giggle.

-- His intelligence and wit. Grandpa was a smarty-pants and spawned a family of fellow smarty-pants. Education and academics always had a high priority in our family and I think that had a lot to do with my grandpa. He went to college at 16 and was preparing to start his Ph.D at Ohio States when he was drafted during World War II. He was 21.

-- After the war, Grandpa returned to California to run the family business: an appliance store. For some reason, I've always been fascinated by the thought of my grandfather selling televisions, refrigerators and washing machines in the 50's and 60's during the height of postwar America's consumerism. I studied the the impact of television on our society and culture--particularly on American home life--in grad school and I always felt a certain sense of awe and pride in the fact that my grandfather was a part of this new culture and the rise of the middle class in postwar America.

-- His wandering feet (the original wandering feet). My grandparents caught the traveling bug before commercial flying was a common practice. My grandparents have a big map of the world in their den with little stick pins of all the places they've been....and it's covered. They've been everywhere--absolutely everywhere. All seven continents (including Antarctica) and over 160 countries. I grew up listening to their adventures in foreign lands, the exotic places they'd been, the foods they'd eaten, the people they encountered. I learned that the world is both so much bigger and so much smaller than I had ever imagined. Places like Egypt, China, South Africa and India never seemed so far away because I knew my grandparents had been there. My grandpa always said that the three favorite places he had ever visited were Switzerland, New Zealand, and Antarctica. Switzerland, because it was the most beautiful; New Zealand, because it had the nicest people; and Antarctica because it was the most unique. It's been my goal for a long time now to match my grandparents and visit all seven continents. Four down, only three more to go.

-- His appreciation of nice cars. Hayman's like to drive. And we like to drive fast. Who else has a grandfather who used to own a red Corvette?

-- His stubbornness. While Grandpa mellowed significantly in his later years, I know the Hayman's have a long-running stubborn streak that comes from his side of the family.

-- His absolute devotion and love for my Grandmother. If there is one story I never tire of hearing, it's the story of how my grandparents met during World War II. My grandpa--an educated Jewish boy from Southern California--was sent to Utah after being drafted by the Army for training, while my grandma--a teenage Mormon girl from a tiny little town in Idaho--was living in Utah with relatives. She and her friend snuck into an USO dance (you had to be 18 to enter) and met my grandpa there. It wasn't until they were already engaged that my grandfather learned that my grandmother was actually only 15 (he was 22) but that didn't stop them. They were married in March of 1943. Grandpa was sent to Alaska for the remainder of the war and my Grandmother moved to California to live with her new in-laws and to finish high school and, as she puts it, "to finish growing up". My grandpa wrote my grandmother everyday that he was gone. (I really hope she kept all those letters.)

Throughout my life, I watched the love and devotion my grandfather had for my grandmother. He loved his family but his whole world revolved around my grandma, who, as any of her children and grandchildren can attest, is the kindest, most loving woman in the world. As his memory started to fade the last few years, my grandmother would have to gently remind him of many things and his response was often: "I don't remember much, but I do remember that I love you."

There's a line in one of my favorite book series that always makes me cry. The main characters are about to be separated before the start of a war. The husband is sending his wife away to safety while he prepares to return to the commencing battle and almost assuredly, his death. When contemplating his fate, he says:

"But there is one thing that shall lie in the balance. When I shall stand before God, I shall have one thing to say, to weigh against the rest....Lord, ye gave me a rare woman, and God! I loved her well." (Dragonfly in Amber, pg. 698)

I always think of my grandfather when I read that, for if there is one thing that he did, and did well, it was in loving my grandmother, the rarest of women, for 67 years. I can only hope that David and I will have a chance to be together for that long and that, after 60 years together, he'll still look at me the way my grandfather looked at my grandmother, and remember that he loves me.